EyezOn Forum

MANOWAR wrote:Just use one of these.

http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/ ... es/sm120x/

and wire it to a zone on your panel

I looked into this solution, it appears that module will not latch or function at all during a power loss situation so thats kind of a down fall. also in my area at least if i wire this in and hook it to a zone on my panel it constitutes a zoning violation.

i found all this out after i already bought the fire and the co module

The "Fire" was started when an elderly mother left a frying pan on the range and that overheated and eventually caught on fire and did burnt the Range and Rangehood (which cause that electrical circuit to tripped) and minor damage to the Kitchen Cabinets above the Range. Wasn't a major fire, but there was some limited about of smoke damage and this was limited to the area above the range. The smoke detectors were installed by the Builder back in 1992 and was over 20-years old (still installed up to this day even though the owner was told to replace them). The only Alarm Connected Smoke Detector on the second floor is about the same age). Not sure what type of Smoke Detectors they are.

Jonathan wrote:What started the fire in the kitchen? Also, what kind of smoke detector was the 110v (ionization or photoelectric)?

Most people don't know there are two different technologies used in smoke detectors (photoelectric and ionization). Ionization smokes are used in the majority of houses, especially when they are the 110v interconnected kind. Ionization is good for detecting fast flaming fires, but other than that it's performance is poor.

There are numerous cases where ionization smoke detectors failed to go off during a fire and resulted in fatalities because they didn't go off in time.

There are plenty of videos on YouTube about this topic if you're curious.

I also believe you should have heat detectors in the attic, garage, laundry/boiler room on top of the required smokes in the house.

I totally agree, but try telling folks that. Homeowners will spend in excess of a thousand dollars on a High End Flat screen TV or $600 or move on an iPhone/iPad, but skimp on a few hundred dollars for a Smoke Detector that address life safety issues. How much does it really cost for a Dedicated Alarm Smoke/Heat/CO Detector?

I happen to visit many homes due to the type of business I'm in and you would be amazed at the number of Homes that do not have a single functional Smoke Detector, not even a $10 battery operated one. A lot of these home has the actual Smoke Detector, but no battery (non-110V).

Jonathan wrote:That's worse than using the "firefighter" module. Now you're mixing high voltage equipment with low voltage equipment.

If you want to add fire/CO protection on your security system, do it the right way or don't do it at all.

Jonathan wrote:That's worse than using the "firefighter" module. Now you're mixing high voltage equipment with low voltage equipment.

If you want to add fire/CO protection on your security system, do it the right way or don't do it at all.

It's safe. They are dry contacts and there are literally hundreds of high voltage to low voltage relays on the market. I've been installing these exact relays in homes for 15 years with zero failures.

MANOWAR wrote:

Jonathan wrote:That's worse than using the "firefighter" module. Now you're mixing high voltage equipment with low voltage equipment.

If you want to add fire/CO protection on your security system, do it the right way or don't do it at all.

It's safe. They are dry contacts and there are literally hundreds of high voltage to low voltage relays on the market. I've been installing these exact relays in homes for 15 years with zero failures.

That's beyond the point. 110v smokes are not designed or UL listed to be connected to a low voltage supervised fire/burglar alarm panel. Depending on the location it's also against code to do so.

Life safety devices should be installed properly without taking shortcuts to reduce the cost or labor during an installation.

110v smokes are not supervised by the alarm panel, this could create a false sense of security for the homeowner. For example, if one of the 110v smoke detectors were to get disconnected or stopped working, the alarm panel would not go into a trouble condition. The homeowner would be unaware of the issue until the next time they tested the smoke detectors. They would assume everything is okay because the alarm isn't displaying any troubles. This could cost someone their life.

There is no excuse to take shortcuts when installing life safety devices, especially when it violates code.